Muri is puffed rice. Everything else is negotiable: chopped onion, green chilli, tomato, cucumber, boiled chickpea, roasted peanut, thin slices of fresh coconut, chanachur, a fistful of coriander, a squeeze of lime, and raw mustard oil poured from a bottle that has never had a label.
The maker shakes it all in a tin can. That shake is the whole craft, and a good jhalmuriwala does it without looking.
It is served in a paper cone rolled from a page of exam-question papers or an old ledger, and reading your cone is part of it.
It costs almost nothing and is the single most eaten thing in this list.
