Beguni is aubergine sliced thin. Piyaji is onion and lentil. Aloor chop is spiced mashed potato. Mochar chop is banana flower. Fuluri is pure besan batter. All of them go into the same wide karai of mustard oil at the front of the same small shop.
The oil is dark and has been working all day, and this is the point rather than a problem. A fresh karai makes worse telebhaja.
It arrives in a twist of newspaper with a raw green chilli, which you are supposed to bite between pieces. Muri, puffed rice, is the usual accompaniment.
Kolkata eats roughly ten times more of this when it rains, and every shop knows it.
