Milk is reduced, sugar is caramelised into it until the whole thing goes the colour of weak tea, and it is set overnight in a bhaar, a rough clay pot. The clay is the technology: it is porous, so moisture leaves slowly through the wall and the curd thickens without any thickener.
It should be firm enough to hold a spoon upright and should smell faintly of the pot. A plastic tub version is a different food.
The winter version uses nolen gur instead of caramel and is pale, smoky and considerably better.
Eat it at the end of a heavy meal, or instead of one in May.
