Central Kolkata

BBD Bagh

The square the British ran India from, renamed for three men who shot someone in it.

Also
Dalhousie Square
Known for
Colonial administration, the Writers' Building, the tank
Best hour
Sunday morning, when the offices are shut and you can see the buildings
Walk
28 min, 6 stops
Bbd Bagh

Dalhousie Square was the administrative centre of British India. It is now BBD Bagh, named for the three revolutionaries who walked into the Writers' Building in 1930 and shot the inspector-general of prisons.

01

Photographs

Photographs of the quarter. Open one to see it full size.

02

Must-see buildings

  • Writers' Building

    1777, refaced 1889. The seat of Bengal's government for two centuries.

  • General Post Office

    1868. Built on the site of the original Fort William.

  • St. John's Church

    1787. The city's second-oldest church, with Job Charnock's mausoleum.

  • Currency Building

    1833. Restored and now an exhibition space.

  • St. Andrew's Kirk

    1818. The Scots put a spire on it taller than St. John's, deliberately.

  • Lal Dighi

    The tank at the centre. Older than the city around it.

03

Where to eat

  • Anadi Cabin

    Esplanade, ten minutes south

    Mughlai paratha since 1925.

  • K.C. Das

    Esplanade

    Nobin Chandra's descendants. Rosogolla at the counter.

  • The Dalhousie office lunch stalls

    Lanes off the square, 1–3pm

    Rice, dal, fish, on a steel plate, for very little.

04

Things to see

  1. 01

    The Writers' reflection in Lal Dighi

    From the south side of the tank. The shot everyone misses by standing too close.

  2. 02

    Job Charnock's mausoleum

    St. John's churchyard. The stone is now called charnockite, after him.

  3. 03

    The GPO dome

    Corinthian, on the footprint of the original fort. Brass markers show the Black Hole site.

  4. 04

    Sunday morning

    The offices shut and the square becomes legible.

Where this sits

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