North Kolkata
College Street
A mile and a half of secondhand books, and the room where the arguments happened.
- Also
- Boi Para
- Known for
- Books, coffee and argument
- Best hour
- Weekday afternoons
- Walk
- 25 min, 6 stops

Boi Para, the book neighbourhood: the largest secondhand book market in the world, and the coffee house where the twentieth century in Bengal was argued out.
Photographs
Photographs of the quarter. Open one to see it full size.
Must-see buildings
Presidency University
Founded 1817 as Hindu College. The Baker Laboratory is behind the main gate.
Indian Coffee House
First floor, Bankim Chatterjee Street. Worker-owned since 1958.
University of Calcutta
1857. The Senate House was demolished in 1960 and is still resented.
Sanskrit College
1824. Vidyasagar was its principal and opened it to non-brahmins.
Medical College
1835. The first institution in Asia to teach Western medicine in English.
Where to eat
Putiram
Surya Sen Street
Since 1868. Kochuri and radhaballavi before ten.
Kalika Mukhorochak
Surya Sen Street
Telebhaja since 1962. Students have kept it alive.
Paramount Sherbets
Bankim Chatterjee Street
Since 1918. The daab sherbet.
Indian Coffee House
Bankim Chatterjee Street
Infusion and a mutton afghani cutlet.
Things to see
- 01
The Coffee House at four
High ceiling, slow fans, and a room that sounds like one argument.
- 02
The stalls at Colootola
Ask for something obscure. Watch what happens.
- 03
Presidency's Baker Laboratory
Where J. C. Bose and P. C. Ray worked.
- 04
Paramount's marble counter
Unchanged since 1918. Order the daab.
Stories

adda/7 min
The table at the Coffee House that argued for fifty years
Adda is not conversation. It is a Bengali institution with rules, and College Street is where it was formalised.
4 November 2025

books/6 min
A city that reads at midnight
The Kolkata Book Fair is the largest non-trade book fair in the world by footfall. It is held on a field, and it is not really about books.
2 February 2026
Where this sits
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27 quarters · pinch or use + / − to zoom



