North Kolkata

Kumartuli

Where the goddess is built, every autumn, out of river mud.

Known for
Clay idol makers
Best hour
September mornings, 7–10am
Walk
35 min, 5 stops
Kumartuli Lane

Three hundred years of potters in a few narrow lanes, building the goddess out of river clay and straw every autumn.

01

Photographs

Photographs of the quarter. Open one to see it full size.

02

Must-see buildings

  • Kumartuli Ghat

    Where the clay comes ashore and the idols go back into the river.

  • Kumartuli Park pandal ground

    Empty for eleven months, then one of the north's better theme pandals.

  • Banamali Sarkar Street

    The oldest run of workshops, some in the same family for six generations.

03

Where to eat

  • Cha and telebhaja

    Any stall on Rabindra Sarani

    The workshop diet, more or less exclusively.

  • Kochuri

    Sovabazar corner shops

    Before nine in the morning or not at all.

04

Things to see

  1. 01

    Chokkhu daan on Mahalaya

    The eyes painted in three strokes. Arrive before dawn.

  2. 02

    The straw armatures in July

    Nothing but bamboo and rope. The whole thing before it is anything.

  3. 03

    Immersion from the ghat

    Dashami afternoon into the night, from the same steps the clay arrived at.

05

Stories

Where this sits

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27 quarters · pinch or use + / − to zoom